Reading and decoding labels. Dihydrogen monoxide aka…Water.
The term “ Alchemy” is having a moment lately in the beauty + wellness arena, so I would first like to say a few words and honor what Alchemy really is, and how we have evolved into various facets in how we use that term today.
Alchemy is the original method and ancestor to what modern chemistry has developed into. Alchemy is an ancient practice, some say born in ancient Egypt, some say contemporarily in the Arabic regions. Practiced and studied by philosophers from many regions gathered in Alexandria which became a center of alchemical knowledge during the Hellenistic and Roman periods. The great library at Alexandria was the hub for texts, scrolls, writings from all ancient nations, East and West, and a place where scholars and philosophers would gather to learn and exchange information, and the practice of Alchemy was a central part of that exchange.
Chinese alchemy focused on the pursuit of immortality and involved techniques like self-experimentation and diet, while Indian alchemy focused on medicine, mercury, and the preservation of health, with a goal of creating an undecayable body.
Alchemy spread from the Islamic world to Europe, particularly through Spain, and reached its peak in the 16th and 17th centuries, attracting the attention of scientific figures like Robert Boyle and Isaac Newton, and many more. Alchemists sought to transform base metals (like lead and copper) into precious metals like gold and silver. They believed in the existence of a substance, the Philosopher's Stone, that could achieve this transmutation and also grant immortality.
Today, the term Alchemy or to “Alchemize” is used in a more superficial context to describe a transmutation of sorts, whether it be spiritually, or physically. You hear the term a lot in the herbal world and also in the beauty industry. I’m ok with that, as language evolves, as long as we don’t forget what true Alchemy was and is, and that we honor those great minds who figured it all out and put it to practice. Some Alchemists were even put to death during the crusades, and burned alongside the herbalists aka witches for simply practicing their art and science.
Today, we have Chemistry, which is the child of Alchemy. Modern chemistry has many upsides, and of course downsides depending on how and why it is implemented and practiced. Part of this science is that it allows us to create resources with the help of nature, or to create things like ingredients and supplements that are bioidentical without having to wipe out natural resources in order to extract those minerals, or molecules from the plant life that we love and need.
How is all this relevant in the beauty industry?
So let me take you on a journey of one bioidentical ingredient used in hair care and skin care that is created organically in nature, but also created in a lab in order to spare the environment, as we would never be able to harvest enough without wiping out entire ecosystems. I’m also hoping to clarify the concept that just because something is man made or synthesized in a lab, that it is harmful or toxic. Just because you don’t recognize it’s chemical nomenclature (name), doesn’t mean it’s bad…hello Niacinamide (Vitamin B3…widely used in Skincare products) It's found naturally occurring in many foods including meat, fish, milk, eggs, green vegetables, and cereals. Niacinamide is required for the function of fats and sugars in the body and to maintain healthy cells. It’s also made in a lab for the use in beauty formulations, or in the form of Vitamin supplements.
The ingredient I would like to talk about is Methylsulfonylmethane, or MSM. Sounds SUUUPER scary, doesn’t it? It’s also known as Dimethyl Sulfone….EVEN SCARIER sounding!
This ingredient is widely used in formulations for natural products for the skin and hair. It's also widely used as a dietary supplement to support joint health and skin health. MSM is a sulfur-containing compound found naturally in fruits, vegetables, grains, and animal products, as well as in the human body. It's also produced synthetically and is a common ingredient in dietary supplements. Not recommended for long term use internally as it can cause stomach upset. Like ANYTHING, the difference between a “medicine” and “poison” oftentimes is dosage (quantity, frequency and elimination).
In my research as a formulator, All of the sites and resources I use for my research have all given this ingredient a thumbs up as far as safety is concerned.
Sulfur is an essential mineral for skin health, and MSM acts as a source of sulfur for the body. MSM may help strengthen keratin, a protein that makes up the skin, hair, and nails.
Some studies have shown that MSM can reduce wrinkles and improve skin texture. Research also suggests that MSM may help protect against photoaging (sun damage).
In a Formula, it helps with the viscosity of the product and the overall feel and performance and skin feel. A stellar ingredient in creating creams and lotions for luxurious skin feel and absorption.
So let’s NERD OUT and dive into MSM and how it’s made..naturally and in the lab:
What is MSM?
MSM made in a lab is exactly the same as the MSM found in nature. They're identical twins! Both are made using a similar process, whether it's happening in a factory or in the atmosphere."
How Nature Makes MSM (The Long Story Short):
Imagine tiny creatures called phytoplankton living in the ocean. When they die, they release a gas called DMS. This gas floats up into the air. Sunlight and oxygen change DMS into other things, including MSM. Rain then brings this MSM down to Earth, where plants and animals use it. Basically the Hydrologic cycle at work.
Why We Can't Get MSM Directly From Plants:
They contain small amounts, like a few drops in a swimming pool. It would be devastating to environments and ecosystems to harvest it from nature. So, we need another way.
How We Make MSM in a Lab (The "Nice" Way):
Scientists use a process that mimics nature. They take natural gas, combine it with sulfur, and then add oxygen. This creates DMS, which is then turned into MSM.
How We Make MSM in a Lab (The "Not-So-Nice" Way):
Some companies make DMS using waste from paper mills. This process is less efficient and uses more energy. While it produces the same MSM, it's important to know where your ingredients come from. This is a widely used cosmetic ingredient, ethical sourcing is key.
Why Sourcing Matters:
Knowing where your MSM comes from is important! Just like with food, you want to know it's made in a good way. The 'nice' way is usually better for the environment, producing a much cleaner product that is safe for the person and the planet, while giving the Chemist or Formulator a key and high performing ingredient that renders results for the client.
This actually applies to a wide variety of ingredients used in the cosmetic and supplement industry. Many times, the names of these ingredients look so intimidating and scary, but they are actually not. There is a huge gap in information when it comes to formulation, especially in the DIY community. We also must remember that just because it grows from our beautiful Mother Earth, that it cannot harm you. Poison Ivy is pretty, but you wouldn't want to put it on your face! Bella Donna is gorgeous…but potentially deadly. Rosemary as well as Vitamin E are often mislabeled as a natural preservative in the DIY beauty community. They are actually antioxidants…two VERY different actions, which is crucial to know before you make a product.
Everything has a chemical name and a chemical classification…including the well known hydrogen, oxygen and so on. Water is a chemical. Of course there are COUNTLESS chemicals that are toxic and really terrible for our bodies and the planet! Luckily, there are plenty of resources out there to explain what these substances are, and if they are safe. It is really important to know the difference.
Many of these “lab made” ingredients also save our ecosystems by giving us the opportunity to create beautiful, safe and efficacious formulations without over harvesting and stripping away the precious plants that we need for a healthy life and planet. It’s one thing to create super small-scale self care and beauty using plants you harvest (ideally have cultivated and grown yourself), but we also must consider the reality that the beauty industry is massive, and professionals need high performance AND sustainable tools in their toolkits, without wreaking havoc on the planet by over harvesting.
This is where Alchemy and its child, Chemistry can actually do good in the world. Just use diligence on where you choose to support the brands that use these ingredients. Research their sourcing, practices and commitment to sustainabilty. While I am a huge advocate for botanical beauty, ingredients that are natural and naturally derived (I grow most of the plants I use in my brand) I also don’t automatically assume that if you can’t pronounce it, that it is toxic or bad. After all..Vitamin E is classified as Tocopherol.
